I felt genuinely sad to leave the San Juan Islands. I remember that in 1980, when I was here to lead the community college bicycle tour class, I mused about settling here. Lopez Island was my favorite then, as it is the most pastoral and least upscale of the three largest islands served by the interisland ferry, and I felt the same attraction this time. Back then I wasn’t ready to settle down – that came nearly two decades later – and now I’m pretty settled in the Southwest. But the natural beauty, the abundance of the land and climate, and the strong sense of community remains appealing.
Catching the early ferry to Anacortes, I rode the winding scenic route down Fidalgo Island, over Deception Pass, and down Whidbey Island to the Coupeville ferry to Port Townsend. At deception Pass I was joined by another cycle tourer, also pulling a Bob trailer. Bill, 55, lived on San Juan Island, and was on a short round trip to Olympia.
Deception Pass, from my northern approach
The highlight of the day came mid afternoon, when I stopped at Whidbey Sun and Wind en route to the ferry terminal to say a quick hello to Kelly Keilwitz. Kelly asked if I’d like to try some crab. Certainly willing, I had no idea what I was about to enjoy. We uncovered a bathtub in his yard, and he told me to choose my crab and asked if I was squeamish about killing and eating one. Pretty soon he had shown me how to hold, kill, and dismember a local Dungeness crab. Once boiled, he taught me to crack and remove the shell. Butter, lime juice, horseradish in different combinations: What a rare treat, a completely different flavor than anything frozen and shipped.
My chosen meal at Kelly’s
On the ferry I met Ted Gifford, a retired physician of “nearly 70” who had ridden to visit his son following a six week tour. He gave me a tour (“my first as a tour guide!”) of Port Townsend, and then we rode together toward Fort Townsend State Park, where I camped for the night. He told me that the US had built multiple forts in the area during WWII, fearing a Japanese submarine invasion. Ted was in magnificent shape, with tanned, well-muscled legs from cycling – an inspiration to me to keep healthy and active for as many years as possible.
Ted, who gave me a grand tour of Port Townsend
Many of the fellow touring cyclists I meet are in my age range, and I’m glad to discover this and meet and talk with them. Even the one cyclist with whom I shared the biker/hiker campsites last night, a retired schoolteacher and native Hawaiian from Honolulu, was nearly 70 years old. It’s quite encouraging!
Bicycle shop or artist’s studio? It’s both. Two photos of the work of a real cycling champion, at Williwaw Bike Shop outside Port Townsend
I am am beginning to adapt to bicycle travel mode. I’m finally in the place where everything I carry has a specific location and I can find it. I’m down to carrying what I need and not much else. The next several days, down the eastern side of the Olympic Mountains, along the Hood Canal and through the woods to Aberdeen and eventually Astoria, Oregon, will be sparsely populated and made for riding miles.
I will not likely post here for several days. If you’re reading this, please text (505 780-2738) or email me (als@sindelarsolar.com) a greeting or your best news.